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[Williams Lee]

Well I have had a bad start to the year with my dad being very ill and him passing away, so the clio has been put to one side, I have not even washed and waxed it yet but now everything is sorted out I can start planing to restore the the Williams.

I have started a shopping list of everything I think I will need but need some help with other bits, the first being the calipers. Is there a refurb kit availble or have they go to be sent off or new ones brought, the same with the shocks can they be refurbed or have I got to get new ones. The springs will be replaced.

I am going to run all new pipe lines for the brakes with braided line kit going to the calipers, whats he deal with the bias is it worth replacing or not? Also what bushes need to be replaced I know powerflex do a front kit but what about the rear?

the engine is coming out to be checked over and having a make over is there any parts that I need to pay close atention to? And is the extra mount worth doing?

Sorry for all the questions but I want to make sure I got most of the bits before I start stipping her down.

Thanks Lee

[Rob.]

Calipers
Refurb kits available from brake specialists - about £30 and DIY
Or exchange your caliper (minus slider) to somwhere like gsf or brake specialist - £70 a caliper roughly

Shock Absorbers
£50 each (roughly) from Renault. Can not refurbish them internally, but you can paint and spruce them up if the seals and damping are still fine

Springs
Must be bought from Renault

Brake compensator (bias valve)
If it is very rusty i would replace it, but it is a bitch of a job. Very difficult to get to and if the valve is rusted, the bolts holding it will be. If it works i would coat it in waxoyl and leave it. Graham has just replaced his, so you might want to ask him about what to do and the difference it makes.

Bushes
There are two on each side on the wishbones. Then there are two at the back of the subframe that hold the roll bar to the subframe, and two under the wishbones that stop the roll bar knocking into the wishbones. All worth replacing. The wishbones ones youll have to get pressed out with a press, The roll bar ones you can do yourself. Very tough job on the car, much easier if you remove the subframe. Bushes are about 10 pounds for a pair, with the wishbones ones slightly more.

Dont fit poly bushes to a Williams (IMO). Poly bushes do not work in the same way as the original rubber ones. A rubber bush works by distortion and bending of the rubber. The actual bush hugs the metal and excludes water. Its the actual movement of the rubber that gives the rotation. A poly bush doesnt distort. It rolls on the metal its mounted on (hence you have to grease them). This causes the movement to be stuttery and gives poor suspension control. As the grease gets washed off the movement becomes worse.

Some cars are designed at the onset to take poly bushes (many race cars). The Williams is not and they should not be fitted if you want to maintain proper suspension action. Rod fitted them to his rally car and the driver made him go back to rubber ones because it was affecting the way the car's supension moved. I dont understand the obsession with them. Brand new Renault rubber bushes are fine and cheap, and easier to fit and work better.

The only bush at the rear is the bush on the torsion beam arms. About £50 from Renault i think, needs pressing out. If you have the skill you can replace it with a bearing, to improve rear suspension geometry. I know of a few rally cars with this modification.

Extra Mount
Yes worth it, if you drive very hard. If not, i cant see the advantage. I have an almost new one for sale in the for sale section.

Other Things to Check
Check mounts for movement - replace if necessary
Check the subframe is straight and true - replace if bent
While engine is out check for rust and repair accordingly
Check bearings - replace if necessary
Replace ball joints while everything is off
Replace steering rod arms (one of the best things you can do if they havnt been replaced before)
Check belts
Replace all sensors. 02, CTS, dials coolant temp, oil pressure (if not working or suspect)
Remove loom and repair

[Williams Lee]

Thanks Rob  just having a look round at prices and this is turning very expencive lol

Are the bores lined on the williams lump??

[Graham.]

Firstly let me offer my condolences to you i know how you feel.
A very good reply from Rob i cant add much to that tbh, other than with the engine id change the water pump at the same time as the cambelt and tensioners, whilst its apart renew the clutch.

Maybe drop the subframe refurb and refit

[Williams Lee]

Yeah going to do all that and replace the oil pump and check all the bearings, pistons and that to.

Graham how much of a pain is the bias to change?

[Graham.]

Hmmmm, well just done mine, its 4 copper brake lines, 2 bolts 2 a body bracker and a spring of the rear beam, the copper lines are a pain to put back in after you have 2 in due to the lack of movement to line the others up, expect seized uinions and sheer off/ rounding off but if youre running all new lines that wont be an issue

[Williams Lee]

Cool thanks mate a job to look forward to then lol

[Rob.]

One thing i will say is that i dont think these engine like being taken apart. They seem to run forever if you dont. The people who have problems are the ones that start messing. Id leave it be if there are no obvious problems and just service it.

[Graham.]

Perhaps a compression test is all that might be needed just to check

[Williams Lee]

All the test will be done and I have 3 mecanics to help me so when it does come apart I'm sure it will all be put back together right lol 1 thing that will be changed is the oil pump to make sure the oil is getting around.

[Rob.]

Is there a reason you are going to take it apart? What was the compression test like? Is it down on power?

[Williams Lee]

It is a little down on power and noisey when cold, so its all being tested and then when the engine comes out I am going to do new oil pump and head gaskit so my mate said will we have a look to see if anything is worn on the lower engine and piston bores.

[Rob.]

If its down on power, my guess is the valves need reseating. Most people who get 10-15 bhp on 'headwork' think it is as a result of the headwork, and it is, but not the way they think. They are just getting back the power they lost through wear and tear of the engine.

[Jamie]

I would be interested to see before and after pictures of this as I am planning something similar with mine, but at the moment am a bit scared of taking anything off. I know its worn, but im not good with these things and feel I cant afford someone else to do it all, so I guess I will have to just get stuck in myself. I would love to paint the subframe, it is very rusty down there.


Jamie

[Rob.]

I would be interested to see before and after pictures of this as I am planning something similar with mine, but at the moment am a bit scared of taking anything off. I know its worn, but im not good with these things and feel I cant afford someone else to do it all, so I guess I will have to just get stuck in myself. I would love to paint the subframe, it is very rusty down there.


Jamie

A lot of this stuff isnt hard, you just have to start with the easier jobs and build up confidence. If you have any sort of basic intelligence, you will be able to do most of the work yourself, all you need is a trolly jack, axle stands and some basic tools.

You dont need a 100 acre plot of land, swimming pool* and specialist storage shed like Mat Brown.








*made up for effect